By: Eddie Ayers, County Extension Agent

Almost all shrubs in your yard require some pruning from time to time. If your landscape is gifted with a
lot of shrubbery or fruit trees, then you should take time to learn the why, when, and hows of proper
pruning. Unsightly plants often result from not pruning or pruning incorrectly.

Why prune? Pruning helps to produce attractive, well-formed compact plants. Pruning stimulates new
plant growth by forcing dormant buds to develop. Most of the new growth that develops as a result of
pruning occurs within 12 inches or so of the cuts. In some cases, pruning is done to shape plants by
removing overgrown or misshapen branches or low limbs that interfere with foot traffic and lawnmowers. Pruning also removes diseased or insect-damaged wood.

When to prune? Late February and March are excellent months for pruning most shrubs, and any over-
grown plants and fruit trees. Yes it is tempting to prune when there is nice weather in early February, but
wait as long as posible to protect the cuts from harsh cold weather. All evergreen plants and summer-
flowering shrubs should be pruned during this time, however, spring-flowering shrubs such as azaleas,
forsythia, flowering quince and dogwoods should be pruned after they have completed flowering. Pruning
these plants in February or March would remove their flower buds. As a general rule, if the plant blooms
before or at the same time as azaleas, or in the spring, prune it in the summer. If the plant blooms after
azaleas, or in the summer, prune it in the spring.

What about those huge overgrown shrubs which obstruct windows, doorways and walks? Drastic pruning
is the only answer in this situation. You can rejuvenate most overgrown shrubs by pruning them back
severely to within a foot or two above ground level. Most broadleaf shrubs, including azaleas, Japanese
hollies, Chinese hollies, camellias, gardenias, nandinas, abelias, and crape myrtles respond very well to
heavy pruning if the plants are healthy and well-established. Providing you prune at the proper time, late
February to March, a healthy broadleaf shrub has an excellent chance of recovery. Old, weak or diseased
plants, however, often cannot endure the stress of being severely pruned. These plants should probably be
replaced. Boxwood is one of the plants that you should prune with caution. It is best to remove no more
than 20% of the foliage at any one time as they are very slow to recover from heavy pruning. Light
annual pruning will prevent this overgrown condition from occurring. Plants that do not respond well to
severe pruning include junipers, cedars, yews, arborvitae, and hemlocks.

How do I prune? Although shearing is still used to shape some small-leafed shrubs like hollies and
boxwood to an attractive form, thinning of individual branches with hand pruners is the preferred method
for pruning most plants. When cutting back large limbs, a pruning saw is the best tool to use for making
clean cuts, however, you can use lopping shears to cut limbs less than one-half inch in diameter. Be sure
that your pruning tools are well-sharpened and that the cut is made flush to the larger limb or trunk. It is a
good idea to dip the pruning shears in a solution of rubbing alcohol or 1 part bleach to 9 parts water after
each cut to reduce disease transmission, especially in fruit trees.

Pruning is an annual practice for fruit trees. Proper pruning of fruit trees increases fruit set and quality.
Pruning also controls the size of the tree so that spraying and harvesting is easier. Pruning opens up the
tree so that inside leaves can receive more light, plus the tree is generally more attractive if pruned.
Remember, proper pruning is essential for maintaining healthy and attractive plants; improper pruning, on
the other hand, can be disastrous.

For more information, contact me in the Gilmer County UGA Extension office.
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